Westray

Westray
Although exposed to the full force of the Atlantic weather in the far northwest
of Orkney, Westray (Wwww.westray-orkney.co.uk) shelters one of the most
tightly knit, prosperous and independent island communities. It has a fairly
stable population of six hundred or so, producing superb beef, scallops, shellfish
and a large catch of white fish, with its own small fish-processing factory and
an organic salmon farm. Old Orcadian families still dominate every aspect of
life, giving the island a strong individual character. The landscape is very varied,
with sea cliffs and a trio of hills in the west, and rich low-lying pastureland and
sandy bays elsewhere. However, given that distances are fairly large – it’s about
twelve miles from the ferry terminal in the south to the cliffs of Noup Head
in the far northwest – and that the boat from Kirkwall takes nearly an hour
and a half, Westray is an island that repays a longer stay, especially as there’s lots
of good accommodation and the locals are extremely welcoming and
genuinely interested in visitors.
The main village and harbour is PIEROWALL set around a wide bay in the
north of the island, a good eight miles from the Rapness ferry terminal on the
southernmost tip of the island. Pierowall is a place of some considerable size,
relatively speaking, with a school, several shops, a bakery (Orkney’s only one off
the Mainland) and the excellent Westray Heritage Centre (May–Sept Mon &
Sun 11.30am–5pm, Tues–Sat 2–5pm; July & Aug also Tues–Fri 10am–noon; ?2).
The latter is a very welcoming wet-weather retreat, with a mock-up of the sea
cliffs of Noup Head (see below), a range of hands-on exhibits for kids and a good
place for a cup of tea. The island’s most impressive ruin, however, is the colossal
sandstone hulk of Noltland Castle, which stands above the village half a mile
west up the road to Noup Head. This Z-plan castle, pockmarked with over
seventy gun loops, was begun around 1560 by Gilbert Balfour, a shady character
from Fife, who was Master of the Household to Mary, Queen of Scots, and was
implicated in the murder of her husband Lord Darnley in 1567. Balfour was
eventually forced to flee to Sweden, where he was found guilty of plotting to
murder the Swedish king and executed in 1576. To explore the castle, you must
first pick up the key, which hangs outside the back door of the nearby farm.
The northwestern tip of Westray rises up sharply, culminating in the dramatic
sea cliffs of Noup Head, which are particularly spectacular when a good westerly
swell is up. During the summer months the guano-covered rock ledges are packed
with over 100,000 nesting seabirds, primarily guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and
fulmars, with puffins as well: a truly awesome sight, sound and smell.
The four-mile coastal walk along the top ofWestray’s red-sandstone cliffs from
Noup Head south to Inga Ness is thoroughly recommended, as is a quick ascent
of Fitty Hill (557ft), Westray’s highest point. The sea cliffs in the southeast of
the island around Stanger Head are not quite as spectacular as at Noup Head,
but it’s here that you’ll find Castle o’Burrian, a sea stack that was once an
early Christian hermitage. It’s now the best place on Westray at which to see
puffins nesting; there’s even a signpost to the puffins from the main road.
Practicalities
Westray is served by car ferry from Kirkwall (2–3 daily; 1hr 25min;
T01856/872044), or you can fly on Loganair’s tiny eight-seater plane from
Kirkwall (Mon–Sat 2 daily; 12min). Guided tours of the island by minibus or
bike can also be arranged with Westraak (T01857/677777, Wwww.westraak
.co.uk), who will meet you at the ferry. A minibus (May–Sept; at other times
phone T01857/67758) meets the ferry and connects with the Papa Westray
ferry at Gill Pier in Pierowall; book a seat for the bus on the ferry. For bike
rental, contact either of the hostels (see p.672).
Westray’s finest accommodation is at the A Cleaton House Hotel
(T01857/677508, Wwww.cleatonhouse.co.uk; 5), a whitewashed Victorian
manse about two miles southeast of Pierowall, with great views over to Papa
Westray. Cleaton House is also the place to sample Westray’s organic salmon,
either in the restaurant or in the hotel’s congenial bar, which serves real ale.
The Pierowall Hotel (T01857/677472, Wwww.orknet.co.uk/pierowall; 3), in
Pierowall itself, is less stylish and less expensive, but equally welcoming, with a
popular bar and a well-justified reputation for excellent fish and chips, fresh
off the boats (much of it fish you’re unlikely to have heard of).
B&B is available at No. 1 Broughton (T01857/677726, Wwww.no1broughton
.co.uk; 3), a newly renovated house by the southern shore of Gill Bay, on
the edge of Pierowall. Westray is positively spoilt for hostels: A Bis Geos
(T01857/677420, Wwww.bisgeos.co.uk), on the road to Noup Head, has
unbeatable views along the cliffs and out to sea; inside, it’s beautifully furnished,
and there are also a couple of very good self-catering cottages. A The Barn
(T01857/677214, Wwww.thebarnwestray.co.uk) is situated in an old farm at
the southern edge of Pierowall; it’s luxurious inside, easier to get to, has a small
campsite adjacent to it and a games room and genuinely friendly hosts.